Finally A Regular Day

Thursday, May 15, 2013

Today was the first “normal day”.  It wasn’t the day I arrived; it wasn't the day before a holiday or the actual day of a holiday.  It was very nice to observe Shavuot for just one day rather than two as we do everywhere other than in Israel.  Businesses were open again, busses were running and I 'm feeling less intimidated with my lack of Hebrew speaking and understanding.  I now have an English to Hebrew dictionary which I used to find out how much the bus costs, and I asked for green onions and little eggplant at the souk - all in Hebrew!   I'm also figuring out how to use this blog site with all of the instructions and labels in Hebrew.  Thank you to Carolyn for sending me the link to Google Translate. As you can see, I'm again writing from left to right.

I’ve started to organize and look forward to my adventures and will be visiting the Seltzer goat farm on Sunday to see the farm and learn what I can actually do there.  More to come on that.

On Tuesday I had purchased a few things at the grocery across the park so I was able to make a decent breakfast – a pseudo shakshuka with fresh tomatoes, peppers, onions and garlic.   Since there wasn’t enough liquid with just the tomatoes and there was no juice or sauce, I just put the eggs inside a circle of the vegetables rather than cooking them in the vegetables themselves.   It was pretty good but I missed the heat of chili peppers.

Machane Yehuda is the well known market place in Jerusalem, otherwise known as the “Souk” (pronounced “shuck”).    Machane Yehuda is  similar to the Pike Place Market in Seattle but easily 10 times the size and of course with many different products. (I don't think I'm exaggerating, am I?)  You can buy everything from fresh produce, fish, meat and poultry, spices, nuts, breads and pastries, and fresh tahini of different flavors. (Who has heard of pesto or chili flavored tehini?)   There are also vendors selling housewares, clothing, and flowers and restaurants offering many different options for breakfast, lunch or dinner.   

Machane Yehuda's history began in the late 19th century when merchants brought their products to a large lot that was located in a central area in Jerusalem.  Over time the number and variety of merchants increased and walls were built around the lot, providing shelter for the growing number of stalls. 

During the years of the British Mandate  (1917-1948) Machane Yehuda became an increasingly popular place for residents to shop and was proving to be important financially as well. Ronald Stores, the first governor of Jerusalem, contracted an architect, Robert Ashby, to further develop the exterior design and the infrastructure of the marketplace.  There were finally sewage systems, running water and lighting.  

Although a formal design had been created, Machane Yehuda continues to have a very informal appearance both, internally and externally.  There are still a combination of Jewish and Arab merchants, selling foods and other items from their own individual cultures.  And as it has been for many years, the Souk is a place for everyone - residents and tourists of all nationalities and cultures.

With today being Thursday, the Souk was packed with people getting ready for Shabbat.

A first look at the fresh foods at The Souk - Machane Yehuda.

Sea bass - Soon to be my dinner

Eggplant

Tehini - plain and chili flavored

Ground Spices

Olives

Halavah

Coming from Seattle we’re aware of, and most of us are pleased with, the elimination of plastic bags from our stores because of the negative affect they have on the environment.  At Machane Yehuda, and in every other store throughout Israel, plastic bags are used for even the smallest item at every stall.  I tried to avoid taking the bags, but most of the vendors insisted.  I’ve already started a substantial collection of plastic bags in the apartment.

I decided it was time to start cooking. I had gone to the souk with several recipes in mind and tried to purchase only items for those recipes.  But I couldn’t resist the sun dried cherry tomatoes and the feta cheese, which I didn’t really need, at least today.

Tonight’s dinner included Chreime, a spicy Tunisian fish from Israeli chef Lior Lev Sercarz and Israeli Chopped Salad, compliments of Janna Gur, author of The Book of New Israeli Food,.  Coincidentally, both of these recipes were included in the May, 2013 issue of Saveur  in an article called “The Promised Land” by Gabriella Gershenson.  The fish is very similar to the delicious Yeminite fish that my daughter Cynthia makes for Shabbat dinner (and that I love).

Chreime (Tunisian Fish Stew)

6 fish fillets, about 4 oz each (I used striped bass)

3 T fresh lemon juice

Salt and pepper to taste

¼ C olive oil

10 cloves of garlic, roughly chopped

3 small red Thai chilies, stemmed and roughly chopped

6 oz tomato paste

2 C minced cilantro

Combine the fish, juice, salt and pepper in a bowl and set aside.  Heat oil in a 12” skillet over medium-high heat.  Add garlic and chilies, cook, stirring, until soft, for 2 minutes.  Add the tomato paste, cook, stirring, until slightly caramelized, about 2 minutes.  Add cilantro and 1 ¼ C water. Bring to a boil.  Reduce heat to medium and cook until the sauce is slightly reduced, about 6 minutes.  Add the fish and juice, skin side up, cover and cook until the fish is done, the time depending on its thickness.

Israeli Chopped Salad

¼ C minced cilantro

¼ C minced mint

¼ C minced parsley

2 tsp ground sumac

1 tsp cinnamon

½ C olive oil (I used about ¼ C)

6 scallions, thinly sliced

4 cloves garlic

4 medium ripe tomatoes, seeded and minced

3 medium cucumbers, seeded and minced

2 Serrano chilies, stemmed, seeded and minced

1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded and minced

1 large white onion, minced.

Juice and zest of 3 lemons

Kosher salt and pepper to taste.

Mix all the ingredients in a bowl. Let sit for 20 minutes before serving.