This week I returned to Ein Keram in the Judean Hills. The last time I was there was early in my trip when I came to make kubbeh with Dahlia, but hadn't had time to explore the village.
This day was very hot, and the area is very dry. There are lots of hills, and I actually like climbing hills. This Russian Orthodox monastery is at the top of the highest hill in the area. It's beautiful and just stands out like a sparkling diamond. I HAD to see it up close.
Reading the very simple map of the town I started following the road up the hill toward the church. The higher I got, the more difficult it was to actually see my target which was hiding within the trees. But I kept going, passing St Vincent's of Ein Keram, passing the Ein Keram youth hostel.
I saw an open green gate with a sign for a convent, not a monastery, so I kept going until the road ended. Still not finding my destination I descended back to the convent and the open gate, and walked in to beautiful grounds with small cottages scattered throughout where the nuns live, each surrounded by beautiful gardens. Ancient terraces sprouted olive and almond trees. The road narrowed but didn't flatten out. There were no other "civilians" on the grounds, but none of the nuns stopped or questioned me. I didn't realize they didn't speak Hebrew, so when I asked about the "church gadol" and each one pointed and directed me to follow the path UP the hill, I thought they understood was I was asking for.
This was a long climb and I was tempted to stop several times; my water bottle was just about half full, and it was hot. But I was determined to get to the top and now I could see the monastery peeking out through the trees - still higher than I was.
I finally reached the top, thankful to see a bathroom. After taking advantage of my find, I walked around the building and admired the surroundings. I looked out to see the town which seemed much smaller than when I left it. The other sign I saw was one that clearly said "No Uncovered Legs or Arms inside the Church. Since I was wearing shorts and a tank top I wasn't able to see the inside. At that point, although I was enjoying the beautiful view and the beautiful building I was ready to leave - I was hot and tired.
Getting down was faster and easier than getting up. I passed the cottages, passed the gardens, passed the small church lower on the hill and walked toward the green gate, which was now closed and locked! What do I do?
The stone wall on the inside of the gate was about three feet high and there was shrubbery behind the wall that continued to the other side. I thought I'd just climb over the wall, work my way to the other side of the gate, then climb back down. I was confident that I could do that.
I hoisted myself up and over the wall (thank you to Debbie Sanders for helping me have very strong arms) and worked my way through the brush, which included some very sharp thorns. When I reached the other side of the gate, I realized that the road had descended but the wall had not, leaving about a 6-8 foot drop. There was no way I could successfully tackle that! So I returned to my starting place, retracing my steps through the thorny brush.
The only remaining option was to walk back and find one of the sisters to let me out. I knocked on the doors of several of the cottages - no answer. Continuing my search I heard voices in the basement of one of the larger communal buildings. There was an open window and seeing several women inside I tried to communicate my situation to them. Whether or not they understood me, I don't know. I do know that I did not understand them. As it turns out, the residents of this convent only speak Russian - no Hebrew. And I know less Russian than I do Hebrew.
One finally came out and escorted me into the building which housed the dining room for the community. There were several very, very long tables with food and drinks, and only a few people in the room eating and drinking. Of course the people in the room did not understand a thing I was saying. No one offered me food. I didn't think it was a good idea to take pictures, but I did get up the nerve to ask to fill my water bottle.
Finally using hand motions, I was able to communicate that I was locked inside the grounds. Someone got a key and handed it to a very stern, official looking nun (like the Mother Nun in the Sound of Music), who walked me to the gate and let me out. She never said a word.
I quickly descended the hill back into town, got a nana lemonade and found the bus to take me back home. Did I say I was very hot and tired?
 |
This day was very hot, and the area is very dry. There are lots of hills, and I actually like climbing hills. This Russian Orthodox monastery is at the top of the highest hill in the area. It's beautiful and just stands out like a sparkling diamond. I HAD to see it up close.
Reading the very simple map of the town I started following the road up the hill toward the church. The higher I got, the more difficult it was to actually see my target which was hiding within the trees. But I kept going, passing St Vincent's of Ein Keram, passing the Ein Keram youth hostel.
 |
| Very old olive trees |
This was a long climb and I was tempted to stop several times; my water bottle was just about half full, and it was hot. But I was determined to get to the top and now I could see the monastery peeking out through the trees - still higher than I was.
Getting down was faster and easier than getting up. I passed the cottages, passed the gardens, passed the small church lower on the hill and walked toward the green gate, which was now closed and locked! What do I do?
The stone wall on the inside of the gate was about three feet high and there was shrubbery behind the wall that continued to the other side. I thought I'd just climb over the wall, work my way to the other side of the gate, then climb back down. I was confident that I could do that.
I hoisted myself up and over the wall (thank you to Debbie Sanders for helping me have very strong arms) and worked my way through the brush, which included some very sharp thorns. When I reached the other side of the gate, I realized that the road had descended but the wall had not, leaving about a 6-8 foot drop. There was no way I could successfully tackle that! So I returned to my starting place, retracing my steps through the thorny brush.
 |
| The outside of the gate - with very high walls |
One finally came out and escorted me into the building which housed the dining room for the community. There were several very, very long tables with food and drinks, and only a few people in the room eating and drinking. Of course the people in the room did not understand a thing I was saying. No one offered me food. I didn't think it was a good idea to take pictures, but I did get up the nerve to ask to fill my water bottle.
Finally using hand motions, I was able to communicate that I was locked inside the grounds. Someone got a key and handed it to a very stern, official looking nun (like the Mother Nun in the Sound of Music), who walked me to the gate and let me out. She never said a word.
I quickly descended the hill back into town, got a nana lemonade and found the bus to take me back home. Did I say I was very hot and tired?
Hilarious story, especially since it was you, not me! ~Amy
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